Singapore: 4 Days Lang
I’m back home from Singapore!
I friend asked if it was weird to call the Philippines home, and I can truly say that the Philippines looks, feels, smells, and sounds like home now. It took leaving for a few days to truly appreciate the smelly, loud, unorganized, but familiar chaos that is my life here in the Philippines.
I was in Singapore for an amazing five days and four nights. The main catalyst for the trip was the Laneway Music Festival, an Australian based indie music festival. An Aussie volunteer that I met back in October last year when we did Zombie dancing said he was going and that I could tag along if I wanted to. After I saw Feist was playing, I was totally sold. It was only a one-day festival, the concert ticket was pretty expensive ($138), and I had only heard of one of the bands, but I felt I would immensely regret it if I didn’t go. I booked a flight ($145) and started planning my visit to the city/country that is The Republic of Singapore.
I don’t think I can truly communicate how awesome and exciting it was to adventure outside of the Philippines, and around a clean, new, city; exploring temples, mosques, parks, Little India, Chinatown, business districts, residential districts, malls, MRT stations, and parking decks filled with expensive cars. I got lost so many times I was beginning to make it my hobby.
As per my new-life ambition, I resisted making a schedule of plans for my time in Singapore. Other than the one-day festival, and meeting up with my CouchSurfing host on the 13th, I really didn’t have anything that I had to do. I knew that I would be eating lots of exotic and interesting food, watching an eclectic mix people, riding the MRT and public buses, getting incredibly lost, and overall doing whatever I wanted to do. The beauty of all of those things is that they don’t involve any pre-planning. All I did before hand was print off an MRT map and exchange some Pesos for Singapore Dollars. The climate being similar to the Philippines, my camera was still on the fritz, so I only got a few good photos, but it would have been hard to capture most of what I experienced in a picture anyways.
I arrived at the airport Saturday afternoon, and took the free shuttle to the MRT station. I bought an MRT travel card and was on my way to where I thought the hostel (which was a nice hostel, with the exception of it’s name: “The Inn Crowd”) was located. It was supposed to be a 10 min walk from the Metro, but after walking around the area for 2 hours I realized I must be going in the wrong direction. I asked a nice looking man where he thought I should be going, and he said he would ride with me on the bus to Little India (where I was told the hostel was located). The man said he was working in Singapore for five years, and liked it here, but his family was back home in Bangladesh. After a 15 minute ride he explained that my stop was 3 stops after his, and after I ‘alighted’ I could ask around for further directions. I ‘alighted’ from the bus to find myself in a bustling Little India. It was so exciting with all of the sounds, colors, and smells of incense and flower wreathes. I couldn’t help but stare at the pedestrians and their beautiful clothes and skin tones as they passed me by. I may have stood watching for 15 minutes before I started wondering where I was. I bounced around from restaurant to bar to restaurant, asking if they knew where the now elusive Dunlop Street was. I couldn’t find it on any maps, and after asking 5 different people and getting nowhere, I began to get discouraged.
I was feeling hungry and thirsty because I hadn’t bought anything at the airport, appalled by the hike in prices and confused by the currency exchange. I decided to take a left turn onto a main street, which completely changed my surroundings and in helped me forget temporarily about the empty feeling in my stomach. Immediately after the left turn I spotted a familiar sight. A dirty, run down, ‘gas station’ or ‘sari-sari’, type convenience store. There was an diverse array of products on shelving, from the floor to the ceiling, compacted and arranged in a way that made me think of Dick’s Saco back in Auburn. The man behind the desk might have been middle eastern descent and was speaking a language in a friendly tone, but that I’d never heard before. After I entered the store I waited a minute for him to complete his call, excited to hear different another language and after asking (maybe with a hungry/hopeless look on my face) if he knew where Dunlop St. might be, he became the first person in three hours who could give me a precise answer: “Turn left, two lights, third light take a right.” I must have clearly shown my excitement because I got a nice smile from him, and after remembering how thirsty I was, I bought a bottle of water from his little store. Re-hydrated and hopeful, I left the store with a little hop in my step. At the 3rd light, as promised, I spotted Dunlop St.
I entered the hostel to find Justin, an RPCV, who just wrapped up three years of service in the Visayas (southern Philippines). He got a last minute deal on a flight ($60 RT) and decided to join in the fun for the music festival. It was so great to see a familiar face after so much wandering, and I was grateful to be with someone who knew Singapore much better than I did (he studied in the country for a few months). He didn’t seem too perturbed about my tardiness, and after emailing family to tell them I made it, we set off for the dorms ($17/bed). The dorms were compact, but clean, and the showers had warm water. After getting quickly refreshed we decided to hit the town. Luckily, Justin had local friends in the city who he had gone out with the night before, so he took me to a great spot that brewed their own beer and had an amazing view of the skyline.

(Views from the first stop of the night)
After a few pricey beers, we decided to move to the next adventure. Justin had heard of a place called Altitude, which was located on the roof of one of the tallest buildings in Singapore. I think it was on the 64th floor. We couldn’t quite figure out which building it was, so we stopped inside a lobby to ask a receptionist if she knew where we should go. The receptionist was just as clueless as we were, but as we were leaving a woman in her mid-late twenties walked past and said she knew where it was and didn’t mind taking us to the entrance. As we walked in and out of tunnels, escalators, streets, and lobbies, it became clear to us that she was no ordinary tour guide. She had chin length straight blond hair that looked like it hadn’t been washed in a few days and was wearing a large, loose fitting green t-shirt with gym shorts. Her frail size and demeanor made it seem as if she was swimming inside both of them. She had the most tattoos I’ve ever seen on one body. They were covering her skin from her wrist up her arms, and only seemed to stop because of her excessive clothing. Both of her legs, up to as far as I could see on her starkly white thighs, were covered with colorful, dark, and interesting designs. She spoke softly as she told us with a European accent that she has worked for the past four years in Singapore as a Physics professor. She told us she was meeting up with a group of friends in an area that I had never heard of. Later, my friend Justin told me it was a notoriously shady area, but I had to resist the urge to break away from where she left us and follow her around for the rest of the night.
This bar was quite expensive ($25/drink) but even though the ambiance (think ritzy night club in Orlando) wasn’t my scene, the views from the 64 story roof top, and chatting with Justin were totally worth it. We stayed long enough to finish our drink and walk around each side, looking down at the rest of the insanely clean and organized cityscape.

(Drinks overlooking the city)
After this bar, we met up with our Aussie friend, David, at a hawker center. A hawker center is a food court, inside a complex, that housed little food stands inside what reminded me of visiting mom’s storage units back home; except all of the units were open and there were different looking people inside each one, speaking a different language, and creating a different smell. All of them were emitting the familiar warmth of cooking food- none of which I had ever seen or tasted before. Although it was all new to me, I could tell there was a wide variety, of which I couldn’t distinguish, so I asked Justin to order for me. What came out was the most delicious food I have eaten in as long as I can remember. It was spicy and sweet, with noodles, and coconut milk, and mushrooms, and lord who knows what kind of meat. It was absolutely delicious.
After having dinner at the hawker center, we decided to make our way to the area of the town with the best gay nightclubs. I had only been to one gay bar before, The Phoenix in Orlando, but that doesn’t really count because we were in town for the Auburn bowl game, and it was the only bar that would let us in under 21. I had gone with Lee and a bunch of other straight guys, who preceded to play darts and drink Budweiser. Where we went in Singapore was way more legit. After paying the cover($20), we made our way to the bar, which was incredibly packed, and got a drink. After that, we tried to find a spot on the dance floor, but it too was crammed with tall and exotic looking men, dancing, kissing, laughing, talking and enjoying themselves. There were guys in costumes, and guys half-naked, all dancing around with each other. It was incredibly entertaining to observe all of the new and exciting events folding out all around me; but I was grateful when we decided to take a break from the dance floor and make our way upstairs to the more relaxed second floor. Up there I could take it all in on a more toned-down level, and actually sit down which was nice from all of my wandering earlier that day. I enjoyed chatting with my friends, looking at the interior decorating, and just taking it all in. I saw the most vibrant gay scene I’ve ever seen, even though being gay might be illegal in Singapore.
Sunday marked the day of the festival. There were 12 acts all playing one after each other for 40-45 minutes each. It was my first festival where they set up two stages side by side, and alternated stages. As one band was playing on a stage, the other bands would be setting. We arrived a little late inside Fort Canning Park but still got a good spot on the lawn. It was so nice to sit in the grass, surrounded by trees and clean air but still in the middle of a mega city. The music was good and the beers were expensive ($7). I didn’t really know any of the artists well, except for Feist (who, although it was a short set, was absolutely amazing); but I was really surprised by Chairlift, Austra, The Drums, and M83’s performances. I wish I could have seen The Cults, but they finished their last song as we were walking into the festival. It was so refreshing to see people who’s style reflected something different about themselves, and who weren’t just trying to stand out, or look like someone different.

(The venue, Fort Canning Park, was absolutely beautiful)

(Chairlift)

(View from our spot)
My friend David had to catch his plane back to Manila on a red-eye that night, so Justin and I were left to entertain ourselves around the city. We decided to find some good food, and even though it was past 1am when the festival ended, the cab driver knew exactly where to take us. I can’t fully explain what a “steam-boat” style restaurant is, but it is an incredible idea. Anyone who knows me though, knows I should probably never, ever, partake in a buffet-style dinner. I ate so much food it was ridiculous and somewhat painful. I learned that I really like wheat barley juice, and that I can rip the heads of prawns without the slightest feeling of remorse. I also learned that small fish-balls are deceptively filling, and that imitation crab will never taste as good I remember it should. I’ll try to explain a ‘steam-boat’ a little bit. There is a special table with a hole in the center, and a large pot is placed inside, on top of a gas burner. The metal pot is split into two sections, one with spicy broth and the other with a less-flavorful clear broth. You’re given tongs and an unlimited number of plates to fill up with raw meat, prawns, crabs, all kinds of vegetables, noodles, fish-balls, tofu, fruit, anything really. After filling up your plate you bring it back to the table to cook it for yourself. It was amazing, delicious, and quite dangerous for people who feel the need to ‘clean their plate.’ At $17 I think they actually lost money. As we were looking for our waiter, who may have been extra friendly towards us because of my obvious ignorance that is the system of ‘steam-boat’, I was intrigued to find him inside the restaurant (we were on the patio), lighting a stick of some sort and kneeling before an alter. After a few minutes of kneeling he resumed his work duties and brought us our change with a smile. After our insanely large late-night dinner Justin and I decided to walk it off. We got a little bit lost, but his navigational skills are far better than mine and it felt like we reached the hostel in no time (although I think the sun may have been coming up).

(Good friends, good times. Me, Justin, and David in a kinda blurry pic)
The next day was Monday, the day Justin flew back, and my day to find the apartment of the CouchSurfer, Akshay, who generously agreed to host me for my two remaining nights in Singapore. Justin and I walked through the mall (there are lots of malls) and then to the MRT. We said our goodbyes as he took the green line east to the Airport, and I took the red line north towards the residential area. It was 12 pm, and once again I was navigating my way alone through Singapore. My host’s apartment was supposed to be a 5 min walk from the MRT station, but as usual, I ended up walking away from where I was supposed to be going, finding myself in the 200 block instead of the 500 block (quite a distance). Being lost for a few hours in the afternoon heat of Singapore, and then being told by each passerby that the way I should be going is in the opposite direction, took its toll on my disposition. The government housing areas are incredibly clean and well kept, with nice grass and large side walks, but eventually the novelty wore off and I decided to take refuge inside a gas station with air conditioning. As I was asking the clerk if she knew which way I should be heading, a man in line said that he knew where I was going, and said, “If you trust me, I will give you a ride in my car.” I genuinely had a moment where I asked myself if this was a good or bad idea, and all accounts said go for it.
It turned out that the man, Raymond, was an ex-police officer, and in the private security business now. He had been to the Philippines ten years ago doing volunteer work with a church organization, and was looking for a new job now. He knew exactly where I was going (which was incredibly far from the gas station where I had ended up, but was indeed only 5 minutes from the MRT station that I had arrived at two hours earlier). He and his wife lived nearby in a neighboring complex, and he wondered why my friend hadn’t given me clearer directions…and how did I know this friend, he asked. After telling him that we kind-of met online, he decided that I should have his card, just in case, and he wrote his personal email on the back. I got out of the nice air conditioned car, excited because it was the first time I’ve ever ridden in a right-side driver vehicle and humbly grateful for the kindness of strangers; and so excited to meet some more.
I arrived to the 14th floor of the complex and ran into Akshay outside his apartment. I had arrived over two hours later than our agreed upon meeting time, but he was incredibly nice and didn’t seem to take notice. The condo was very clean and organized, and after taking our shoes off at the front door he gave me a quick tour. He had two new roommates, both girls, one from Japan and one from America, they were also CouchSurfers. His Japanese roommate, a pharmacist, was also hosting couch surfers, two, a girl from Beijing, and a Frenchman named William. Akshay’s other roommate, Lisa, a lawyer, wasn’t hosting at the moment, but she invited us all to go on an excursion to a bird sanctuary with her. I relished drinking tap water and chatting with Akshay. We talked about work and life abroad, and I enjoyed listening to his slightly English accent as he told me a little bit about his life growing up in India and his travels around the world. We were one big international CouchSurfing family!
After resting for a bit, we went to the mall (they’re hard to avoid) for a late lunch. I had a Veggie Subway Sandwich – a welcome respite from all of the exotic foods I had been eating. And after eating we agreed to meet up for dinner on Arab St. at 8. We parted ways, and I went in search of temples and mosques. As is my habit, I got lost, but as usual, I enjoyed the ride. I ended up locating an incredible Hindu temple, but unfortunately my pictures didn’t do it justice. This temple is famous for the men who walk on fire coals during a yearly festival, and although there was no fire walking that day, it was absolutely beautiful. Exploring the temples was incredible, and the people watching was really interesting too.
I navigated my way through three temples, one Hindu, and two Buddhist, and then walked up Canal St. from Chinatown to the Bugis MRT to meet up with Akshay for dinner. We walked to Arab St., known for it’s Mediterranean food, and shared an absolutely delicious sampler plate of eggplant, hummus, and yogurt dips, pickles, chickpeas and tomato sauce, along side fresh pita bread ($14). It was good. We talked about books, hobbies, couchsurfing, and travels- he had just flown back that morning from Beijing. He offered to show me around the area (which looked like a nice trendy upper-class hipster scene) but after some internal debate I decided that it would be best to head back to the apartment and get some rest. Lisa, Akshay, and I drank a few drinks and watched a few episodes of “How I met your mother” before calling it a night.
The next morning was Valentine’s Day. I woke up without any plans, but with a vague idea that I wanted to see the Botanic Garden, and maybe visit the National Library because it looked really impressive when I saw it from the street. After I met Paige (the Coushsurfer from Beijing) that morning in the apartment though, I realized my day would be a little different. She wanted everyone to go salsa dancing that night, seeing as we were all single, and wanted us to get lunch together. She was incredibly outgoing and seemed like a good ambassador to a country I don’t know much about, so we ventured outside the apartment in search of food. We ended up at a hawker-style setup, and I asked her to order for me (I should have written down the names to all of these amazing dishes).
She said she wanted to eat her lunch back at the apartment to answer some emails and surf the internet (the apartment had amazingly fast wi-fi); and I said I wanted to go to the Botanic Gardens to eat my lunch. After telling her my plans, I suppose she assumed I didn’t want to be alone. She asked me why I would want to go to gardens when there were plants, beaches, and muscle men at Sentosa (an Island Resort off of Singapore)? Not having a good enough answer for her in time, she quickly called up another couchsurfer and set up a meeting between us on Sentosa that afternoon. I only remembered too late my friend Justin’s advice that Sentosa wasn’t worth the trip. So, off I went to the Botanic Gardens, which was an absolutely beautiful patch of gardens in the middle of the city; but it was quite loud with all of the beautifying going on (I think there was one man with a leaf blower for every tree). I walked around and found a nice, quiet, shaded spot under a massive tree and I noticed a wedding going on in the distance. I opened my lunch and found an incredibly delicious, spicy mixture with some sort of mollusks, noodles, tofu, bean sprouts, curry, coconut milk, fish-balls, and all-in-all mystery items. I ate it with chopsticks and a large spoon-thing, enjoying every single bite of it.
It was time to get going so I could meet a couchsufer on Sentosa. The only thing we had discussed was that I was wearing black, he was wearing lime green shoes, and we were going to meet at the Merlion statue. After walking around a parking deck for the better side of half an hour, I located my route to the Merlion statue. On my way to the statue I realized I had come to the SixFlags of Singapore. This was a tourist trap, without a lot to offer a volunteer on a budget. Once I got to our meeting place, I realized what a needle in haystack each of us was going to be. There were hundreds of people and families walking around. I explored a little but until it was time to meet, and then found a pay phone. After chatting with the couchsurfer for a bit we decided to scrap the whole thing (he was at least an hour away from where were going to meet). On my way back to the shuttle I realized that there was a free bus that drove all around the island, dropping people off at various attractions and beaches. I rode around on that for about an hour, looking at all of the rich tourists and fat children, and decided I was done with that excursion.
Luckially, Akshay had agreed to show me around some more when he got off work at around 7. I tried to make sure I wasn’t taking advantage of his kindness by accepting his offers to show me around, but he assured me I wasn’t, and I was grateful for his knowledge of the city and good company. We met at Merlion Park, which was a nice little area in ritzy part of town, but I suppose all of Singapore is ‘ritzy’. The Merlion is the symbol of Singapore, a statue perched on edge of the water with the head of a lion and the body of a fish. The lion is supposed to represent the strength of the city, and the fish body symbolizes that strength combined with the importance of that strength in relation to water (I believe Singapore is the largest port city in the world?). It is quite a unique, and incredibly entertaining to watch people posing with the statue. The lion is continuously blowing water out of it’s mouth through a fire hose, the water going back into the sea. My favorite poses were, I’m almost positive from Filipinas. They would put their hands up pretending to cup the water, put hearts with the fingers around the water, and put their purse up to pretend like they were catching the water. I enjoyed watching people do silly things all for a good shot.
After meeting up at the statue we decided to walk around the city and drink. That’s right, you can walk around with an open container when ever and where ever you want! That is just another reason why I adore Singapore. So we went to 711 and bought some beverages, walking to different parks as I craned my head up at the beautiful and massive buildings. We ended up at the waterfront over looking a large casino, comprised of three buildings with a boat on top (pictured in the first shot of the city); a ferriswheel; the Fullerton Hotel, the Science Museum, and the business district. It was wonderful sitting, drinking, and looking out at the view of a clean city. After watching the casino light show over the waterfront (which was a little lacking, but at least they tried), Akshay said we could walk around a little more and then snag some beers from his work. That’s right, his work has free beer for employees. I thought it sounded unbelievable, but when we got to his office, it was incredible; there was a ping-pong table, a pool table, a fully stocked kitchen (the nicest I’ve seen in years) and an amazing view. We played pool, well, really, he whooped me. But I was excited to learn that I could still hold my own in ping-pong….as long as he didn’t slam any shots. After that we went up to the conference room with the best view and sat watching the city from the 18th story. It was absolutely incredible.

(Taken on a different night in the city, but still highlighting the joys of a Tiger Beer in public)
After table games and enjoying the views we decided that we were too hungry to call it a night, so we went to a 24hr food place near by and ordered their specialty. B.B.Q. Stingray! That’s right! I ate Steve Erwin’s killer and it was pretty tasty. Well, it was exciting at least, and the flavors were quite unique. After our exotic snack we hailed a cab back to the apartment ($17), wrapping up my last night in the city. All-in-all I averaged $120 USD/ Day, but considering that includes the $100 I spent on alcohol (it’s quite expensive there), $125 USD on a festival ticket, and $150 for the flight over – every penny and peso was totally worth it.
Everything about my trip to Singapore was amazing, and it was one of the shortest, and most memorable, trips I’ve ever had. It was my second time CouchSurfing, but undoubtedly not my last. I met so many new friends and had so many new and incredible experiences. I’m afraid I will have to travel for the rest of my life just to see it all.
Once I arrived back to the Clark Airport, I asked a Filipino man who sat near me on the plane if he knew of a jeepney or bus that would take me to the bus terminal (there were taxis, but they were incredibly expensive). He said he wasn’t sure if there were some or not. He asked me where I was heading, saying that he and his family hired a van, and that he would have to check with his wife first, but he was fairly sure that they could take me as far as the bus terminal. After meeting his wife and family, we set out for the parking lot. His wife told me she had seen me on the plane arriving to Singapore five days ago, and was curious about where I stayed and how much it was per night. I told her and she seemed impressed with my frugality.
As we were leaving the airport, there was a man holding up a sign advertising a jeepney ride to the bus terminal for 35 pesos. I told my new found friends that I didn’t mind paying for a jeepney, and that I didn’t want to impose. After a short discussion with the conductor, the whole family decided that they would keep me, to ensure that I made it safe to the terminal. It took a lot of convincing on my part that I was competent enough to make my way from the bus terminal to my home (which I’ve done tons of times). And in the end they agreed to drop me off alone at the bus terminal (a 30 minute ride from the airport). We parted ways with hugs and many, many, thanks on my part.
I was back home.